The first time I tried making a Cuban link chain, I thought it would be easy. But halfway in, I realized I was doing more guessing than building. My links didn’t line up. The chain twisted. And the final result didn’t even look close to what I had in mind.
That failure taught me one thing: don’t rush. Cuban links look smooth and simple, but there’s more going on under the surface. Once I understood the process and slowed it down, I got it right. If you want to make your own, here’s how I’d do it from start to finish.
Start With the Right Material
Picking the wrong wire will mess up your chain before it even begins. I always start by choosing the right gauge, strength, and finish. You want something strong, flexible, and easy to work with, not too soft, not too stiff.
If you’re making a Cuban link chain men typically wear, it helps to start with a thicker gauge and bolder pattern. These chains are often chunkier and need solid links that hold shape under weight. Starting with test material helps avoid waste before moving on to higher-value metals.
Choose the Wire Gauge Carefully
I usually go with 1.2mm to 1.5mm wire for a medium chain. If you want a chunkier look, go higher. But remember the thicker the wire, the harder it is to bend and link smoothly.
Your wire needs to be round and even. Any flat spots or dents will ruin the symmetry later.
Cut It Into Equal Pieces
Once the wire is picked, I cut it into equal strips before coiling. This gives me clean, consistent rings. I use a small jeweler’s saw or a rotary tool. A flush cutter works, too, but it may leave a slight angle.
If your cuts aren’t precise, your links won’t close properly. That’ll show once you start weaving.
Coil and Cut Into Jump Rings
This part makes the foundation of the chain. I wrap the wire tightly around a steel rod or dowel. The goal is to make a long coil without gaps. The tighter it is, the better your links will line up later.
After coiling, I cut it into jump rings; those are the round pieces that become each link in the chain.
Keep the Tension Tight During Coiling
I keep steady pressure on the wire as I wrap it. If the coil loosens or slips, the rings won’t stay the same size. That throws off the whole chain.
A mandrel helps a lot here. I use one with a clamp to keep it stable. It saves time and keeps my wraps consistent.
Use a Saw for Cleaner Cuts
Some people use snips, but I’ve found that sawing through the coil gives cleaner edges. That means the links close tightly and need less sanding later.
I use a jeweler’s saw with fine blades. It takes longer but gives smoother cuts with almost no burrs.
Shape the Links Into the Cuban Pattern
Once I have my jump rings, I start shaping. This is the most important step. Cuban links don’t just stack, they twist into a specific pattern that gives them that signature flow.
I close each ring, then begin connecting them one by one, laying them flat and overlapping them slightly as I go.
Use Pliers to Align Each Link
I press each link gently using flat-nose pliers to get the alignment right. It takes a steady hand. Too much pressure bends the ring. Too little and it doesn’t hold the shape.
Sometimes I use two sets of pliers, one to hold, one to adjust. That gives me better control and avoids scratches.
Keep the Twist Consistent
Cuban chains follow a specific twist pattern. I check every five or ten links to make sure the alignment stays true. If one link twists the wrong way, it throws off the whole row.
A few Reddit jewelers shared that they lay their chain flat on a board and pin it down every inch. I tried it and it made shaping way easier.
Solder the Links for Strength
Now it’s time to lock everything in. I heat up each link and solder the opening closed. This turns every jump ring into a solid piece. If you skip this, the chain can snap under pressure or pull apart when worn.
I use a micro torch and silver solder for test builds. For gold chains, I use matching gold solder to keep the color clean.
Clean the Joints After Soldering
Once the solder cools, I dip the links in pickle solution to remove the oxidation. That makes it easier to polish later.
You don’t need fancy tools here. A small crockpot and a few tablespoons of pickles work fine. Just make sure to use copper tongs to avoid contaminating the solution.
Test Each Link After Cooling
I gently pull each link after soldering to check if it holds. Any weak points get reheated and closed again. This part takes time, but skipping it leads to broken chains later.
Some makers even stress-test the chain by pulling gently from both ends. If it holds, it’s ready for the next step.
File, Sand, and Polish the Chain
Now comes the cleanup. Soldering leaves small lumps and sharp spots. I file each link carefully using needle files, then smooth it with fine sandpaper or a polishing wheel.
This turns the chain from rough and handmade into clean and professional. It’s the longest step but also the most satisfying.
Focus on the Outer Edges
The outside of each link is where the eye goes first. That’s why I spend extra time making the curves smooth and even.
One jeweler on Reddit shared a trick: wrap fine sandpaper around a toothpick to reach inside corners. It works better than a file in tight spaces.
Use Polishing Compound for Shine
Once I’m done sanding, I switch to polishing. I use a cloth wheel and a compound like rouge. I run the chain through slowly and repeat until the shine looks right.
For gold pieces, I wipe them down with a soft cloth afterward to remove residue and avoid dulling the surface.
Add the Clasp and Final Touches
The last step is connecting the clasp. I usually use a box clasp or a lobster clasp, depending on the chain size. I solder it in place or use heavy-duty jump rings to secure it.
Then I do one last polish and check for rough spots. If it passes, I know it’s ready to wear or sell.
Test the Clasp a Few Times
I open and close it five or six times to make sure it holds. A weak clasp ruins the whole piece, no matter how good the chain looks.
Some makers reinforce the clasp ring with a little solder. It’s a small detail that adds extra security.
Check the Weight and Flexibility
The chain should feel solid, but not stiff. I lay it flat and lift one end. It should drape naturally. If it bunches or sticks, something’s off in the twist or soldering.
Adjusting the tension or reshaping a few links usually fixes it.
FAQ
How long does it take to make a Cuban link chain?
If you’re just starting, expect to spend a few days. Once you get good, it might take 4–6 hours.
Can I make one without soldering?
Technically, yes, but it won’t last. Soldering adds real strength. Without it, links may open.
What’s the best wire to start with?
Copper or silver-plated wire is great for learning. It’s cheap, easy to bend, and shows you how the pattern flows.
Is a torch required?
For real strength, yes. You need it to solder the links shut. Small butane torches work fine for most builds.
How much wire do I need?
It depends on the thickness and length, but usually around 5–10 feet for a standard bracelet or chain.
Final Thoughts
Making a Cuban link chain isn’t quick, but it’s worth the time. Once you understand each step, it gets easier and way more satisfying.
The process teaches patience, precision, and control. And the final result? Something you can hold, wear, or sell with pride. Start small, take your time, and you’ll build something real one link at a time.
