Walking into Serai, after traversing through a narrow laneway, one would expect to be assaulted by the decor proudly proclaiming your entry into a Filipino restaurant. What you get is the exact opposite. Understated, modern, and minimalist in design, a terracotta painted wall to your right and an open kitchen dominated by a wood-fired grill to your left with the bar at the centre. ‘This is deliberate. We didn’t want artwork on the walls. I want the focus to be on the food,’ states Chef and restaurateur Ross Magnaye.
Ross together with partners Shane Stafford and Ben Waters wanted Serai to ‘fit perfectly in the heart of the Philippines.’ The sense of wonder and playfulness found in food. The frenetic energy of Manila and the regional flavours across the islands are what Serai brings to the fore. For Ross, whose love for food and creating stemmed from feasting with family, it was a natural extension to make this into a career. Having been exposed globally, most recently from Bulgaria, he has the uncanny nous to construct dishes with soul. ‘We are offering the best Australian produce with Filipino flavours,’ quips Ross.
With the food itself, everything in the menu has been carefully crafted and curated. Selat lumpia was a perfectly balanced dish comprised of organic pineapple, spiced coconut, and smoked (not) caviar. It’s tangy, sweet and salty with an unbelievable texture. You would not be able to stop at one, once you’ve tried this. Under crispy things, you can never go wrong with the ‘McScallop’ Abrolhos scallop, crab fat sauce served inside a pandesal bun. The juiciness of the scallop lightly coated with a thin layer of batter, the umami-ness of the crab fat sauce, and the softness of a well-made bun – let’s just say to die for is an understatement.
Moving on to the wood-fired offerings, Skull island prawns in burro butter and Gippsland lamb ribs in adobo sauce are my personal favourites. Being an island girl myself, seafood is my love language. And nothing says I love you more than the prawns happily bathed in burro butter. The lamb ribs in adobo were a welcome revelation. It didn’t vie for attention. It knew its worth and dared you to find fault in it where none was to be found. As far as the larger plates are concerned, their Lechon is hands down a winner. Made from western plains free-range pork belly and smoky pineapple ‘palapa’, the smell itself reminds you of fiestas in the barrio. The spirit of community, kindred spirits and shared joy for revelry is prevalent.
For dessert, we had the Leche flan in passion fruit and Serai’s version of the ubiquitous taho, instead of being served hot, it is served cold with soybean ice cream and the regular tapioca pearls in brown sugar syrup. This playful take on what I feel is a national treasure keeps things fun and interesting.
When asked what his personal favourite was, Ross was quick to point out ‘the calamari – we source this from Port Lincoln, cooked simply on an open flame with the smoked longannisa dressing.’ It has a hint of spice but the simplicity in the preparation belies the flavour explosion which can be found soon after. Going about creating the menu, Ross candidly shares their brainstorming process ‘Shane would give me a dish and ask me to put a Filipino flavour. We go by seasonal produce here, tweaking the menu to what’s available. I know what works well together in my mind so creating (the menu) was easy. I draw inspiration from my heritage.’
The drinks menu is equally interesting. With names such as Ube Wan Kenube and Sus Maryo Spritz, you are promised a rollicking good time. Carefully designed and created by bar manager and mixologist extraordinaire Ralph Liboon, Serai’s cocktail game is strong and epic.
‘Filipino Over Fire’ can be taken both literally and figuratively. Literal in the sense that most of the dishes are cooked in an open flame which harkens back to the traditional method of Filipino cooking. The simplicity of the preparation is underpinned by robust and melt-in-your-mouth flavours. It invites you to put your feet up yet at the same time stand up and be recognised. All the food and drinks pay homage to the Philippines. Its unparalleled brilliance is due to the symphony of flavours taking you on a journey across the Orient, right in the heart of Melbourne.
Symbolically, it speaks to the Filipino diaspora. Ross’s own migration story of making Australia his home when he was young. It spoke of his journey, creating his own space and charting his own destiny. It speaks authentically to the thousands of Filipinos who had to overcome their own struggles – their personal ‘fires’ – only to emerge stronger, more seasoned and infinitely more resilient. Having Serai, a world-class restaurant in the CBD is a statement. It speaks to a migrant’s heart – We have arrived. We are seen. We are heard. We are here to share what we love and invite you into our world.
‘This is who I am.’ Ross unapologetically states. Refined and recalibrated, constantly evolving and shaping the multicultural landscape in Australia.
Celebrity Chef Gordon Ramsay Dines at Serai
World-renowned celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay recently visited Serai in Melbourne and had nothing but praise for Filipino-Australian chef Ross Magnaye and his team. Ross told The Philippine Times that he was nervous when first meeting Gordon but felt great when they talked. “Was a pleasure cooking for Gordon, thank God he didn’t kick me out,” said Ross. The British celebrity chef is in Melbourne to film his reality TV show, Food Stars.
Serai’s Success and Approach to Filipino Cuisine
Since it opened its doors, Serai continues to receive a growing number of positive reviews and feedback. Serai’s unapologetic approach to Filipino cuisine and its commitment to showcasing the diverse flavors of the Philippines has earned it a reputation as a top dining destination in Melbourne. With a carefully crafted menu that incorporates the best of Australian produce with Filipino flavors, Serai’s dishes are a testament to the creativity and skill of its chefs. Since opening less than 12 months ago in a Melbourne CBD laneway, Serai has been awarded Melbourne’s best new restaurant by Good Food Guide and Restaurant of the Year by Timeout Melbourne. Serai offers Filipino dishes reimagined, cooked over a wood-fired grill.
For those looking for a unique dining experience that celebrates the rich culture and heritage of the Philippines, Serai is definitely worth a visit. The restaurant’s commitment to offering a true taste of the Philippines is evident in every dish, and the warm and inviting atmosphere makes it the perfect place to enjoy a meal with family and friends.
To book a table at Serai, visit their website at https://seraikitchen.com.au/ or follow them on Instagram at @serai.melbourne to stay updated on their latest offerings and events.
(For comments and suggestions, email rainelaysico@gmail.com. Follow @rainewritesdaily on Instagram.)
